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Opinion
Home / New Zealand

Kem Ormond’s vegetable garden: How to target winter pests the natural way

Kem Ormond
Opinion by
Kem Ormond
Features writer·The Country·
20 Jun, 2026 05:00 PM4 mins to read
Kem Ormond is a features writer for The Country as well as Coast & Country, covering all aspects of rural life.
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Kem Ormond has tips on how to stop snails and other pests from eating your prized seedlings and vegetables this winter. Photo / Warren Buckland

Kem Ormond has tips on how to stop snails and other pests from eating your prized seedlings and vegetables this winter. Photo / Warren Buckland

Kem Ormond is a features writer for The Country. She’s also a keen gardener. This week, she’s targeting pests the natural way!

Having just attended a meeting where some attendees were discussing the invasion of mealybugs and snails on their orchids, it made me think about pests and how to deter them from our vegetable gardens.

Winter vegetable garden pests are cold-weather survivors that target brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, kale), root crops and leafy greens.

The most common threats we have to deal with are aphids, caterpillars (cabbage white butterfly, diamondback moth), slugs and snails – and all they want is to chomp their way through our prized seedlings and vegetables.

Many home gardeners, including me, prefer to avoid synthetic pesticides around their vegetables, turning instead to organic alternatives that are widely perceived as safer.

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However, these natural methods are not without their drawbacks.

Organic pest control products can still pose risks, as they may harm non-target organisms, such as beneficial insects, including pollinators and natural predators.

In some cases, they can also contribute to environmental issues, such as soil contamination or unintended effects on surrounding ecosystems.

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As a result, even organic approaches require careful, informed use to minimise their potential negative impacts.

You should first focus on creating the right environment to support your plants and that will nurture naturally occurring pest control methods.

Using a specific intervention, such as a spray, should really be a last resort.

This should only be applied early in the morning or late in the day when beneficial insects such as bees are not so active and will not be harmed.

Homemade sprays

You can make your own basic pesticides using a mixture of vegetable oil (which will suffocate insects by covering breathing pores on their bodies) and liquid soap, which will help disperse the oil along with any waterproofing the pests may have.

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Being a contact spray only, it won’t affect any future generations of the pest that may hatch.

You will need to apply several times for any sort of effective result.

You can use plant material like chilli and garlic with the other two main ingredients, but it will really need to be strained before applying so as not to block up the sprayer.

These sprays can harm beneficial organisms but are unlikely to harm your plants.

Certified general sprays

These are created by manufacturers who formulate pesticides using organically derived materials.

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Designed to be effective and safe for operators, these sprays are generally made from oils, fats and soap, but can harm beneficial predators and parasites.

Spot spray as a last resort.

Specific commercial sprays

These are host-specific and usually formulated from bacteria or viruses.

These sprays target specific pests such as caterpillars, so they are safe for the user and the general environment.

Remember, they only target a specific pest, so if you have other pests on the same plant, they will not be targeted.

Living organisms

There are some commercial operations that culture live organisms that prey on or parasitise specific pests such as whitefly or mites.

These can be purchased and released into a greenhouse.

Once again, they’re host-specific so don’t impact the beneficial insects.

Synthetic pesticides

These are unacceptable to organic growers because they are damaging to not only non-target organisms but also the soil and the broader environment.

These include insecticides, fungicides, miticides, molluscicides and bactericides.

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Their overuse results in resistance in pest and disease species, so it is essential to limit their use and explore alternative control methods, starting with creating the right environment for your vegetables.

I work hard on ensuring I have a good environment in which to plant my vegetables.

This includes making sure the soil has an abundance of worms and nutrients.

I use the chop-and-drop method, companion planting, a good planting rotation, cover crops and I keep on top of the weeds.

Apart from the odd snail and slug, the only other pest I have to deal with is the odd caterpillar when the white butterfly is in full force.

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